Bass horn 816 good for home use?? Which model?

**atilsley** · February 20th, 2011, 07:53 PM

I like the 816 design as it seems to present the best of both worlds...the "forwardness/accuracy" of the front-loaded woofer, with the bass extension from the porting. (The larger 828 VOTT bass cabinets are too big for me....)

Is this a good cabinet choice for building a quality two or three way home system?

Also, what's the difference in the A, B and C models....? Should I aim for the 416 driver, or 515?

Thoughts appreciated.

Andrew

**analog addict** · February 21st, 2011, 09:54 AM

I have a pair of 816 VI and 828 cabinets, and in all honesty, the 828's not all that much larger. However, if you went with the 816, I would use a member of the 515 family, since that driver is designed for horn use.

Here's a picture for comparison...

Remember that the 816 isn't really going to go much below 45-50 Hz, so for gut shaking bass, you're going to need a subwoofer.

**Audio_by_Goodwill** · February 21st, 2011, 02:48 PM

Originally Posted by analog addict

I have a pair of 816 VI and 828 cabinets, and in all honesty, the 828's not all that much larger.

I disagree....... To me, the 816 is enough smaller to make a difference. I've got a house under 1000 square feet, Though.

As far as the 816 VI...... horrible horrible enclosure....... so if you find one make sure you send it to me for proper handling :-)

Remember that the 816 isn't really going to go much below 45-50 Hz, so for gut shaking bass, you're going to need a subwoofer.

I agree...... not much down really low.

**whitebroncoii** · February 21st, 2011, 03:38 PM

Originally Posted by atilsley

I like the 816 design as it seems to present the best of both worlds...the "forwardness/accuracy" of the front-loaded woofer, with the bass extension from the porting. (The larger 828 VOTT bass cabinets are too big for me....)

Is this a good cabinet choice for building a quality two or three way home system?

Also, what's the difference in the A, B and C models....? Should I aim for the 416 driver, or 515?

Thoughts appreciated.

Andrew

It is my opinion . . .

All 816 cabs have the same horn flair, volume, and port tune.
They all will sound about the same . . . Here are a few specs that may help;

816A = particle board cabinet, painted Altec grey
816B = 7-ply birch plywood, painted Altec grey
816C = particle board cabinet, painted black with handles and corner protectors
816V = same as C model
816VI = vinyl wrapped particle board, light tan color

The 816VI is the best looking with dual vents for symmetry.

All 816 cabinets should be oriented as shown on the VI data sheet, not as shown on all the other data sheets. The horn flair is designed to be up-down to provide vertical control. This became abundantly clear when we measured the coverage pattern of the 816 for AcoustaCadd.

The early 515's and 416's are pretty similar for 816 application. 515-8G and newer are best for bass-horn uses. They offer instant response as good or better than a 12" direct-radiator woofer.

The 816 design is a bass-horn with horn-loading down to 200Hz. Vents (ducts) extend the low frequency to 50Hz. The low frequency response can be seen on the 9864-8A data sheet. However, as with any horn-loaded device, there is a drop of around 6 dB between 200H and 50Hz in free air. This drop is somewhat masked by half-space effect (3dB) when placed on the floor or against a wall. This improvement can be as much as 5dB when the cabinet is placed in a corner. In either case, the 816 cabinet is not going to "thump" and forcing it will cause the rear-loaded woofer to hit the baffle.

**analog addict** · February 21st, 2011, 03:51 PM

Originally Posted by Audio_by_Goodwill

I disagree....... To me, the 816 is enough smaller to make a difference.

Originally Posted by whitebroncoii

All 816 cabinets should be oriented as shown on the VI data sheet, not as shown on all the other data sheets. The horn flair is designed to be up-down to provide vertical control.

Alright, you gentlemen are going to force me to flip these things 90 degrees and see how they look/sound. I've actually been toying with using all the hardware these things came with and actually flying them for rears.

However, I don't know if I have enough stout friends to help me get them up to the ceiling...:waver:

**Audio_by_Goodwill** · February 21st, 2011, 06:19 PM

Originally Posted by whitebroncoii

816C = particle board cabinet, painted black with handles and corner protectors

I thought that was Tolex?

816VI = vinyl wrapped particle board, light tan color

I wouldn't exactly call it particle board.......... in part because I hate particle board (it's cheap). I haven't looked inside mine for awhile, but I recall the particles being bigger, although not as big as OSB.

The 816VI is the best looking with dual vents for symmetry.

I agree...... although, I wouldn't turn down a nice pair of single port cabinets, especially if they were plywood.

All 816 cabinets should be oriented as shown on the VI data sheet

That's the way mine is. It take up less room and looks better, too. If I ever get a second, I plan on putting feet on them in that orientation. Stainless would be nice....... similar to those expensive JBL feet.

**Audio_by_Goodwill** · February 21st, 2011, 06:24 PM

Originally Posted by analog addict

Alright, you gentlemen are going to force me to flip these things 90 degrees and see how they look/sound. I've actually been toying with using all the hardware these things came with and actually flying them for rears.

I've got the hardware for my single, too. I keep thinking I should get rid of it, but I know a month later, I'll see a set sell on ebay for BIG $$$$, or I'll have a burning desire to fly my cabinet.

Have you dry walled the toy room yet?

GM · February 21st, 2011, 07:45 PM

Originally Posted by whitebroncoii

It is my opinion . . .

The horn flair is designed to be up-down to provide vertical control.

515-8G and newer are best for bass-horn uses. They offer instant response as good or better than a 12" direct-radiator woofer.

And why between this and their parallel flat walls it's best overall in a HIFI/HT app to use truncated 825/828 cabs..........

Yeah, ideally need the 50+ Hz Fs 803 drivers driven with period correct high output impedance amp to get the most out these high tuned cabs, but the 8G with a small amount of series resistance should work just as well.

GM

**whitebroncoii** · February 21st, 2011, 09:41 PM

Originally Posted by Audio_by_Goodwill

I wouldn't exactly call it particle board.......... in part because I hate particle board (it's cheap). I haven't looked inside mine for awhile, but I recall the particles being bigger, although not as big as OSB.

Yes, you busted me on that one. The 816VI is a special OSB developed by/for Electro-Voice portable music systems. It uses a heavy-duty water-resistant glue. There were a couple of Altec speakers using this special stuff; 9820-8A, 9850-8A, 932-8A, and AB series woofers are a few.

**Audio_by_Goodwill** · February 21st, 2011, 10:13 PM

Originally Posted by whitebroncoii

Yes, you busted me on that one. The 816VI is a special OSB developed by/for Electro-Voice portable music systems. It uses a heavy-duty water-resistant glue. There were a couple of Altec speakers using this special stuff; 9820-8A, 9850-8A, 932-8A, and AB series woofers are a few.

I never would have guessed that it was a custom spec'd material. I kinda thought I was splitting hairs, after I replied.

I wish my cabinet wasn't covered in latex paint. I'd love to cover the cabinet in veneer, or a thinner plywood. I'm a little concerned that veneer may not stick to the latex and vinyl.